The Dutch Supraclub https://www.supraclub.nl/ A supra club for all generation Supras and JZ powered vehicles. Shoarmateam powered! Sat, 30 Jan 2021 17:39:35 +0000 en-US hourly 1 150920977 A80 TSRM link page https://www.supraclub.nl/2021/01/25/a80-tsrm-link-page/ Mon, 25 Jan 2021 19:03:05 +0000 https://www.supraclub.nl/?p=15563 The post A80 TSRM link page appeared first on The Dutch Supraclub.

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A80 TSRM link page

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Pre-purchase checklist JZA80 https://www.supraclub.nl/2019/01/27/pre-purchase-checklist-jza80-2/ Sun, 27 Jan 2019 14:37:06 +0000 http://www.supraclub.nl/?p=473 MKIV SUPRA (USED) DUE DILIGENCE PRE-PURCHASE CHECKLIST KEN HENDERSON – MODIFIED BY SHOARMATEAM   How many owners of the vehicle, including you? Has the head been removed from the block for any reason? If so, please detail. Do you have any recent compression/leak down numbers? If not, would you be willing to acquire them to

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MKIV SUPRA (USED) DUE DILIGENCE PRE-PURCHASE CHECKLIST
KEN HENDERSON – MODIFIED BY SHOARMATEAM

 

  1. How many owners of the vehicle, including you?
  2. Has the head been removed from the block for any reason? If so, please detail.
  3. Do you have any recent compression/leak down numbers?
  4. If not, would you be willing to acquire them to close a sale?
  5. Does the car still have the original OEM head gasket? If not please explain
  6. Has the car had any front main seal issues? If so, please explain
  7. Has the car had any rear main seal issues? If so, please explain
  8. What is the condition of the brakes; calipers, rotors and pads?
  9. Do the brakes squeak or squeal upon use? If so, why?
  10. Does the targa top leak or rattle? Do you still have the targa tool? N/A if hardtop 
  11. Does the rear hatch rattle?
  12. Are there any signs of rear hatch rust?
  13. Are there any other squeaks and rattles? If so, what/where are their sources?
  14. Are the headlamps yellowed or fogged at all?
  15. Does the car smoke at start-up, idle, decelerating or while driving?
  16. Does the car use oil between changes?
  17. What are the oil change intervals for this car? Do you have documentation?
  18. Does the exterior of the car have ANY scratches, smudges, dings or bird poop stains?
  19. Please describe the condition of the vehicle’s paint in as much detail as is reasonably 
    possible. Please rate the condition of the vehicle’s exterior paint from 1—10, with 
    10 being best.
  20. What overall rating would you give the vehicle’s mechanical (HVAC; cruise; 
    ignition system, etc.) and electrical systems? Does everything work (such as a/c and 
    cruise control, radio, CD player)?
  21. Would you please provide the VIN so I can run a carfax?
  22. Does the vehicle have any leaks whatsoever ? If so, how long has this condition (s) 
    existed, what is the source and would these leaks be fixed as part of any sale?
  23. What type of suspension does the car have?
  24. What is your overall assessment of the condition of the 6MT tranny? Any difficulty 
    shifting into any gear? Does the tranny grind going into any gear? Does it have any 
    synchro problems? Does it pop out of gear under any circumstances? 
  25. Have you ever “launched” or “brake boosted” the car for drag racing purposes?
  26. Have you ever used the car or roadracing or any kind of racing on a track and/or street?
  27. Does the car have the original transmission and engine? If not, please explain.
  28. Does the vehicle still have the OEM wheels? If so, please describe their condition in 
    as much detail as possible
  29. What type of tires, sizes and approximate mileage remaining?
  30. Has the OEM ECU been altered in any way (G-Force/Mines/Tom’s), or the wiring harness (Fields 
    or DIY job) altered for any aftermarket modifications?
  31. What is the MOT (APK) status of the vehicle?
  32. Do you have all service records?
  33. Where has the car been serviced during your ownership?
  34. If the car has a boost controller, please describe the type of boost the car has seen 
    with its current set-up.
  35. Does the car still have the original twins? If not, how many miles on the replacement 
    twins? 
  36. Do the twins operate in sequential, TTC or E-TTC mode? 
  37. On a scale of 1-10, 10 being best, how would you rate the car’s interior? Please 
    identify and provide pics of ANY worn areas, tears, scratches, cigarette burns, 
    punctures, etc. Does the vehicle still have the OEM rear tonneau cover?
  38. Has the traction control fuse ever been removed or have you altered the traction 
    control in any way?
  39. Have the front fenders/rear quarters been rolled, cut or pulled? If so, will you provide photos showing this, if 
    applicable?
  40. Does the car have any suspension modifications? If so, please describe.
  41. Has the car ever been in an accident? If so, please describe, including the extent of the repair and re-
    paint programs (provide photographs if you have them).
  42. Does the car have any aftermarket body parts? If so please explain.
  43. If the car has aftermarket body parts, do you still have all OEM parts? Would the 
    OEM parts be included in the sale of the vehicle? 
  44. Will you provide pics of the OEM parts not currently installed on the car?
  45. Would you be willing to provide photographs of the car’s undercarriage?
  46. Does the car have its original clutch? If not, what aftermarket clutch has been 
    installed and how many miles on this clutch? N/A if auto
  47. Does the car has a high stall converter installed? If so, what stall speed and brand? N/A if manual
  48. Does the car have the OEM TORSEN LSD? Does the vehicle’s differential “whine” 
    at all?
  49. Has any of the vehicle’s wheel bearings/hubs been replaced? If so, do you have 
    documentation reflecting this, including date work completed and mileage on the 
    vehicle at the time the work was completed?
  50. Please provide a list of all aftermarket modifications to the car, the name of the 
    company (s) installing the various mods and the mileage on the vehicle when the 
    mods were installed (this would include everything associated with your set-up, 
    including EMS and related mods if applicable).
  51. Does the car have any ebay-sourced, knock-off/replica, non-OEM or mechanical 
    aftermarket parts on it? If so, please explain in detail.
  52. What is the total mileage on the chassis?
  53. What is the total mileage on the motor if different from the chassis?
  54. How many of the motor and chassis miles have been accrued under your ownership?
  55. On a scale of 1-10, please rate the condition of the factory turbos. Any smoking 
    because of bad turbo seals? Any shaft play? 
  56. Does the car have any valve stem issues? 
  57. Does your targa top have any stripped bolts? N/A if hardtop.
  58. Please describe the condition of your rear hatch struts on a 1-10 basis, with 10 being 
    best.
  59. Does the car have any missing OEM parts that have been discontinued (go here for 
    reference: http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho…hp?968714-The-1993.5-1998-Toyota-Supra-Discontinued-Parts-Thread)? 

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How to: shave fenders https://www.supraclub.nl/2018/10/01/how-to-shave-fenders/ Mon, 01 Oct 2018 17:49:24 +0000 http://www.supraclub.nl/?p=418 The post How to: shave fenders appeared first on The Dutch Supraclub.

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If you want to maximize the rubber under your car, you can easily fit some 11 or 11.5 wheel in the rear. This can be done without rolling, cutting or shaving the fenders. However, if you’re OCD like me, you want your expensive wheels to sit just right in the fenders. 

Supras are notorious for their double skinned fenders, which are directed approximately 20mm inside the wheel wells. Due the shape of you the fenders , you are limited to some higher ofssets and smaller tires. To move the wheels and tires flush to the fenders you can roll or cut the fender.

Usually rolling is the preffered method, to keep structural integrity. However due the design of the rear fenders, it’s almost impossible to properly roll your fenders. No matter how much heat you apply, you won’t get smooth results. This is also called the “window-treatment” effect. You will always, no matter how good you are, notice ripples along wheel arch, because of the spotwelds in the fenders.

So how do you make room for those nice wheels and meaty tires? Well it’s easy to do. You can shave or cut the fenders. Shaving being the safest and “fool-proof” method imo. The write up below apply’s to both methods.

1. You’ll want to use a marker to mark where you want to cut/shave. Trace with a marker near the outside of the lip.

2. You’ll want to use masking tape or duct tape or some sort of tape to make sure you don’t chip the paint. Use a razor blade and strike the paint on the outside of where you plan to cut. 

3. Make sure you use the correct blade for sheet metal when cutting. I used a grinder to shave the fenders. Use safety glasses and earring protection as the bits of metal will go everywhere.  Take your time when cutting/shaving. Don’t rush, or you’ll burn the paint! Also don’t be scared to shave past the spot welds. The fenders are glued very well, and won’t seperate! When you’re finished, use a metal file to dull the sharp edges so no one gets cut. Put some primer on the bare metal, then seal the fenders and finish with some paint and clear coat. 

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Sales figures JZA80 https://www.supraclub.nl/2018/09/13/sales-figures-jza80/ Thu, 13 Sep 2018 16:58:39 +0000 http://www.supraclub.nl/?p=368 Country Years sold Sales J-Spec   Japan 1993-2002 31588 US-Spec   USA 1993-1998 11473 Canada 1993-1997 228 EU-Spec   UK-Spec   Großbritannien 1993-1996 623 Australasia-Spec   New Zealand 1993-1996 4 Brunei 1993-1996 7 South Africa 1993 1 Australia 1993 1 EU-Spec LHD   Germany 1993-1996 537 Austria 1993-1996 19 France 1993-1996 54 Switserland 1993-1996 204

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Country Years sold Sales J-Spec   Japan 1993-2002 31588 US-Spec   USA 1993-1998 11473 Canada 1993-1997 228 EU-Spec   UK-Spec   Großbritannien 1993-1996 623 Australasia-Spec   New Zealand 1993-1996 4 Brunei 1993-1996 7 South Africa 1993 1 Australia 1993 1 EU-Spec LHD   Germany 1993-1996 537 Austria 1993-1996 19 France 1993-1996 54 Switserland 1993-1996 204 Spain 1993-1996 21 Italy 1993-1996 17 The Netherlands 1993-1996 19 Belgium 1993-1996 55 Denmark 1993-1996 25 Luxembourg 1993-1996 19 Portugal 1993-1996 11 Gibraltar 1993-1996 1 GCC-Spec   Saudi-Arabia 1993-1996 ???? United Arab Emirates 1993-1996 ???? Bahrain 1993-1996 ???? GEN-Modell   Curaçao 1993-1996 ???? Aruba 1993-1996 8 Columbia 1993-1996 ???? Peru 1993-1996 ???? Total 1993-2002 45230

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Dealer options JZA80 https://www.supraclub.nl/2018/08/30/dealer-options-jza80/ Thu, 30 Aug 2018 12:21:05 +0000 http://www.supraclub.nl/?p=299  

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Dealer options JZA80

 

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How to: ETCC mod JZA80 https://www.supraclub.nl/2018/08/30/how-to-etcc-mod-jza80/ Thu, 30 Aug 2018 12:05:47 +0000 http://www.supraclub.nl/?p=291 The post How to: ETCC mod JZA80 appeared first on The Dutch Supraclub.

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How to: ETCC mod JZA80

Requirements:

  • A Double Pole, Double Throw (DPDT) rocker switc
  • 6 x 2m lengths of cable in 3 colour’s (black, blue and white). I say 2m because you can always cut it later – and 3 colour’s for identification but the colour’s are up to you.
  • 6 female spade connectors
  • 4 male and female bullet connectors
  • 1 ring connector
  • Crimping tool
  • Wire cutters

This is an involved method, as you have to cut into part of the ECU wiring loom, so if you’re unsure, DONT DO IT. It could be an expensive mistake!

Theory:

The theory of this method works in a similar way to the TTC method, but instead of bypassing the VSV’s that control the sequential operation, the system stays locked in parallel mode due to the fact that the VSV’s are electrically held open. When Sequential is selected, the system operates as normal, however, if ETTC is selected, the VSV control signal is sent to earth, as a result the VSV’s are held open. 

Method:

NOTE: Before you start this, best to point out that if you try this, and kill yourself or your car in anyway, it’s not my fault.

There are 2 methods in carrying out this mod.

  • The one described below
  • Instead of cutting in the ECU loom, you cut into the VSV wires in the engine bay. I believe the method below is easier as you do not have to run wires through the bulk head, everything is contained within the car

But in terms of switch connections, everything is the same.

  • Take the 6 lengths of wire, and crimp the female spade connectors on.
  • On the black wires, crimp the ring connector on, so that the wires are joined together
  • Take the rocker switch and connect the black wires to the bottom 2 contacts
  • Connect the blue wires to the center 2contacts
  • Connect the white wires to the top 2 contacts

 

 

 

 

 

It’s up to you on where to install the switch – I personally have mine in the armrest storage area so the switch is “hidden”

 

 

 

 

 

Now the “messy bit” – cutting in to the ECU loom.

  • Disconnect the battery!
  • Locate the ECU – Passengers foot well, under the carpet and a plastic cover.
  • Remove the multi plug connector from the ECU
  • Locate Pins 39 (Exhaust Gas Control Valve) and 40 (Intake Air Control Valve) on Connector E9
  • Follow ONE wire at a time the wire away from the ECU 6 – 8″ and then cut, then do the following

This bit is important!

  • Take pin 39 FROM THE ECU and connect it to the top left contact on the rocker switch by use of the bullet connectors
  • Take the corresponding wire TO THE Exhaust Gas Control Valve and connect it to the center left contact on the rocker switch by use of the bullet connectors
  • Take pin 40 FROM THE ECU and connect it to the top right contact on the rocker switch by use of the bullet connectors
  • Take the corresponding wire TO THE Intake Air Control Valve and connect it to the center right contact on the rocker switch by use of the bullet connectors
  • Finally, connect the black wire and connect it to an earth. I personally used one of the big bolts by the gear stick.

Now you can

  • Reconnect the ECU multi plug
  • Put the plastic cover back on
  • Put the carpet back down
  • Hide the wires up in the trim, out of the way
  • Take the ring connector with the black wire crimped on, and connect it to an earth point. (there are several on top of the transmission tunnel, by the gear stick)
  • Admire your handy work

 

 

 

You have now completed the ETTC mod!
Well, actually, not quite yet. You see until the system is pressurized, it won’t be in parallel mode. So take the car for a drive, and get it to boost. When it first boosts, it’ll funny, because as it comes on boost, it’ll cause the second turbo to come on line as soon as you start making boost. After the first time, you should notice three things. Firstly, the car sounds a lot beastier!! That’s because you’re no longer shutting off half the exhaust when you’re under 4000 rpm. Second boost comes on MUCH more smoothly. Third, it doesn’t come on fully until about 4000 rpm. You will get some boost from about 3000rpm, but not all of it.

Your immediate impression might be “this is crap, the car seems so sluggish”. But give it some time (a few days to a week, depending on how much you drive), a few things will happen. You will get used to the car needing a few more revs to really boogie, the computer needs some time to learn that there’s no boost down low, so it can advance ignition timing (you may notice some black smoke from severe over-fueling at first too). It’ll also take a while to realise that the car is noticeably more fuel efficient, and once the computer has sorted itself out, you realise that this is not some poxy little 2 litre 4 cylinder, the NA supra makes as much torque as a WRX, so it doesn’t need the turbo down low for normal driving. But mostly, I love the linear turbo response – the 3000-4000 rpm range is useful again, and the Supra seems a whole lot more fun to drive.

 

Warning

When switching between ETTC and Sequential, its important not to switch when the engine is under load/under boost, as this can cause damage to the pressure tank/sequential system

Its advisable to “switch” when the engine is at idle – this does not mean you have to stop the car every time to switch – use the clutch! – I have been using this method for 6 months and everything is fine!

Enjoy!

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LHD conversion JZA80 https://www.supraclub.nl/2018/08/30/lhd-conversion-jza80/ Thu, 30 Aug 2018 11:39:55 +0000 http://www.supraclub.nl/?p=263 Dashboard  Dash panels  Center console with panel  Handbrake  Heatercore box under the dash  Wiper motor  Cowl plastic over the wiper motor.  Brake lines in the engine bay.  Metal abs holder for lhd  Lhd steering rack Brake master cylinder.  Clutch master cylinder.  Clutch pedal complete assembly  Brake pedal. complete assembly.  Firewall Misc.

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LHD conversion JZA80

  • Dashboard 
  • Dash panels 
  • Center console with panel 
  • Handbrake 
  • Heatercore box under the dash 
  • Wiper motor 
  • Cowl plastic over the wiper motor. 
  • Brake lines in the engine bay. 
  • Metal abs holder for lhd 
  • Lhd steering rack
  • Brake master cylinder. 
  • Clutch master cylinder. 
  • Clutch pedal complete assembly 
  • Brake pedal. complete assembly. 
  • Firewall
  • Misc.

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Genuine TRD Kit JZA80 https://www.supraclub.nl/2018/08/30/genuine-trd-kit-jza80/ Thu, 30 Aug 2018 11:27:01 +0000 http://www.supraclub.nl/?p=187 The post Genuine TRD Kit JZA80 appeared first on The Dutch Supraclub.

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Concept cars and development of the JZA80 https://www.supraclub.nl/2018/08/30/concept-cars-jza80/ Thu, 30 Aug 2018 10:44:14 +0000 http://www.supraclub.nl/?p=159 The post Concept cars and development of the JZA80 appeared first on The Dutch Supraclub.

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Concept cars and development of the JZA80

Source: JZA80.de
Author: Japanfanatic

 

Already in February 1989 a team of 42 developers formed around chief-engineer Isao Tsuzuki. The team was divided into three groups for the benefit of better coordination:

The “DP-Team” (Designated Panelists) consisted of Designers, Technicians and Product Planners, which had the task to push the project from the first sketches and ideas up to the first prototypes.

In 1990 first test-mules were seen still with the MKIII body testing already Engine, Gearbox and Suspension components. The first functional Supra A8 prototype was finished during 1991.

From now on it was the test driver’s (the so-called “Top Guns”) task to test the car in an intensive 30-month trial period on Japans most famous race-tracks. During this period prototypes were also spotted on the roads and tracks in Europe (Silverstone, famous Nürburgring Nordschleife) and North America (Laguna Seca). Extreme testing conditions were found around Toronto, Canada and on Toyota’s very own test track “Shibetsu” on the northern Japanese island of Hokkaido.

The third group, the “Willpower-Team”, was responsible for one sole task: Lightweight Construction. They reduced the fourth generation’s weight compared to its predecessor by massive aid of Finite Element Analysis and under use of lightweight materials. Still, with a weight of 1600kg the Supra A8 is in no way an ultra-light super-car which is mostly connected to the use of many different comfort refinements:
Noise insulation, adjustment possibilities for both seats and steering wheel, speed-sensing power steering, power windows, automatic climate control and other elements depending on the equipment grade such as cruise control, leather seats, CD-Changer, Sub-woofer just to mention few.
The Supra’s objective was not to be a no-compromise sports-car but a luxurious Grand Tourisme with comfort on long distances.
Weight reductions were mainly achieved by use of high-tensile steels (36% Hardtop-Model, 33% Aerotop/Targa-Model) and aluminium alloys.
Bonnet (Hood), targa roof, front suspension sub-frames and more suspension parts are made of aluminium.
Usage of plastic materials was another way to further reduce weight. The 80ltr tank is made of High Density Polyethylene (HDPE), the hollow rear wing is made from plastic, too.

They came to the decision of using a non-electronic suspension setup with front and rear double-wishbone for the sake of light weight.

The final product presented to the public in Summer 1993 wasn’t afraid of any competition. It’s not only an astonishing 5.1sec which take the fastest version with the 2JZ-GTE from 0 to 100kph, it’s also the brakes that impress with their performance.

German Car magazine “Auto Motor und Sport” measured an impressive braking distance of 35.7m from 100kph, cold and warm, which made the Supra the hushed up benchmark for years to come.

The JZA80’s styling is the brainchild of the cooperation between Toyota’s design-studios in Japan and Newport Beach, California: The Calty-Team.

It’s not only all these technical gadgets and developments which make the Supra a premium and exotic sports-car. Toyota was also in the lucky position to benefit from its know-how as a high-volume production car-maker. Many European premium rivals didn’t have this possibility back in these days.

The Supra A8 is based on the shortened Toyota Soarer Z30 (outside Japan known as the Lexus SC) platform. Both cars were built on the same production line.

They also share the 2JZ-GE N/A engine, which is furthermore found in a high variety of other Toyota-Cars.

 

 

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Development of the 2JZ https://www.supraclub.nl/2018/08/30/development-of-the-2jz/ Thu, 30 Aug 2018 10:37:54 +0000 http://www.supraclub.nl/?p=142 Source: JZA80.de Author: Japanfanatic   In 1993 Toyota presented the fourth incarnation of its top of the line sports car: The Supra JZA80. Over years the evolution of the Supra had been connected to the progress in development of Toyota’s M-Engine Family. Beginning with the presentation of the first Supra Generation in 1978, the “Celica

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Development of the 2JZ

In 1993 Toyota presented the fourth incarnation of its top of the line sports car: The Supra JZA80. Over years the evolution of the Supra had been connected to the progress in development of Toyota’s M-Engine Family. Beginning with the presentation of the first Supra Generation in 1978, the “Celica XX” which only outside Japan carried the “Supra”-Badge, during 1986 when the Supra-Models were separated from the Celica-Range until the last generation appearing in 1993, Supras were mostly equipped with M-Type engines. Even the Supra’s great-grandfather 2000GT used a first-evolution M-Engine.
This engine’s design wasn’t capable of modern engineering requirements in the late 80’s. Higher and higher power outputs were demanded from the M-Engine. In it’s seventh release, the 7M-GTE, power output was raised up to 238hp by using turbocharger technology. The 7M-GTE suffered from overheating issues caused by its high power output in combination with the motor block’s ancient design.

Toyota’s simple answer was to replace the M-Engine by a whole new straight six cylinder engine family fulfilling the requirements of the 1990’s automotive industry.

 

BIRTH OF THE JZ-ENGINE.

In 1990 Toyota unleashed the first stage as the 1JZ-GTE with a displacement of 2.5ltr and boosted up to 280hp by two turbochargers operating in parallel mode. In the Japanese market which it was exclusively sold in it replaced the 7M-GTE in the third generation Supra. From 1990 on the 7M was solely available in the export markets until MKIII Supra production ended in 1993.

The second evolution followed in 1991 when the 2JZ-GE was presented to the public in the body of the Toyota Aristo (known as the Lexus GS300 outside Japan). With 3ltr of displacement, a crankshaft with a total of 7 main bearings, eleven hollow-borrowed strut sections for better coolant transport and Toyota’s variable induction system ACIS (Acoustic Control Induction System) this engine maxed out at an already impressive 225hp.
But the real technical highlight was the 2JZ-GTE turbo engine with twin turbocharging.

 

Engineers declared war on turbo lag.

They used a technology hardly seen on gasoline powered engines used in passenger cars: Sequential Twin Turbocharging. The idea is to minimize inertia of the turbocharger by guiding the exhaust gas flow only through one turbine at lower revolutions. This trick improves responsiveness of the engine at lower revs compared to one using only one huge turbine. With rising air requirement at higher revs a second similar turbocharger is activated which results in parallel operation of both turbines similar to the operation of one large turbocharger.

With this sophisticated technology Toyota specified a maximum power output of understated 280hp corresponding to the gentlemen agreement Japanese manufacturers used to have back in these days.
Only the power rating for export markets showed this engine’s full potential: This engine maxes out at an astonishing 330hp@5600rpm according to German Industrial Standard DIN (320hp according to SAE standards) which makes it the most powerful Japanese engine of this period used in standard cars.
Even foreign rivals were not much of a competition for this engine: The Ferrari 348tb’s V8-Engine had a power output of 295hp, Porsche’s flat-six used in the 993 Carrera maxed out at 272hp, only the Turbo-Version of the 964-series had a power output of 360hp.

1992 was the launch year for the 2JZ-GTE in the Toyota Aristo A300. But following its sporty nature it was only a question of time until Toyota would present a superlative sportscar developed around this engine.
1993 was the birth year of the Supra JZA80.

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